Mestia, Ushguli and the Svaneti region
Tucked away in the rugged heart of the Caucasus Mountains, the Svaneti region in Georgia is a realm of breathtaking landscapes and ancient traditions. Often hailed as one of the most picturesque and culturally rich areas in Georgia, Svaneti promises an unforgettable experience for travellers seeking both adventure and immersion in local heritage.
Covered in this post:
Hiking in the region
Daytrip to Ushguli
For detailed guides for specific day trips in the region, see other posts:
Shkhara Glacier Hike
Mestia to Ushguli
Svaneti: Famous for excellent hiking and signature watchtowers
Home to the indigenous Svan people, Svaneti boasts a unique cultural landscape. The Svans speak a distinct language and uphold ancient customs that are vividly reflected in their traditional practices. One of the most striking features of Svaneti’s cultural heritage is its medieval tower houses, which once served as defensive fortifications. These stone towers, some dating back to the 9th century, dot the landscape and offer a glimpse into the region’s storied past. The region also provides a good chance to try out the delicacies and hearty mountain cuisine.
Svaneti is renowned for its dramatic scenery, characterized by towering peaks, lush valleys, and glacial lakes. The region is dominated by the formidable Mount Ushba, often compared to the Matterhorn of the Caucasus, which stands at 4,710 meters (15,453 feet) and challenges even the most experienced mountaineers.
For those less extreme (like myself), the glaciers and surrounding alpine meadows create a stunning backdrop for some excellent hikes, and opportunities to take amazing panoramic photographs. The Svaneti region is still relatively unexplored, as its remoteness has made it challenging to access, however they have recently built new roads, opening up the location to everyone, including those with poor mobility.
The best time to visit Svaneti is from late spring to early autumn (May to October) for hiking and exploring. For winter sports, visit from December to March. In the winter, the resort town of Mestia transforms into a ski haven, providing a fresh alternative to more crowded European slopes.
Things to do in Svaneti:
Hiking in the Svaneti region
The two most popular towns are Mestia and Ushguli, and most people use these places as bases to explore the region. There are lots of beautiful hikes leaving from both of these places, and hiking enthusiasts will typically spend a week or so in order to fully explore. The hikes tend to take a full day each, and some can be quite difficult with rough terrain and steep elevation. There are also some quicker but more difficult shortcuts that can be taken, and nowadays you can also cheat and take a car some or all of the way.
The most popular day hikes in the region are:
7-8 hour hike from Mestia, 22km of moderate difficulty with 1500M ascending elevation
For a harder challenge, continue on from there to the Koruldi Ridge or the Guli Pass
For an easier challenge, take a jeep halfway, or to the top
Chalaadi Glacier
2-3 hours from the trail head, 7km of easy difficulty with 500m elevation
Trail head starts 10km drive from Mestia - drive or taxi to the suspension bridge (to save a long walk from Mestia down a dusty road)
Shkhara Glacier
5-6 hour hike from Ushguli, 16km of easy difficulty
For an easier challenge, take a jeep or horseback halfway to reduce hiking time to 2-3 hours
Many people also do the traditional 3-4 day hike between Mestia and Ushguli, stopping in guesthouses in the villages along the route.
Getting to Mestia:
Mestia is the administrative capital of the Upper Svaneti region, and is the most popular place for travellers to visit. There are lots of guesthouses and restaurants here, which makes it the perfect place to base yourself for your hiking in the mountains.
There are a few options to get to Mestia, which you can choose depending on your comfort with Georgian driving, budget, and how you fit it into the itinerary. The most common way is driving by road, but it’s a long way from Tbilisi so you may want to consider a stopover on the way. Reaching Svaneti typically involves a scenic drive, with one main road that goes up into the mountains, with panormaic views and sheer drops that aren’t for the fainthearted!
Self-drive:
The road to Mestia is actually not as bad as we were expecting, having read lots of other reviews, however having a 4x4 is highly recommended! The biggest problem with the road is the craziness of Georgian drivers, and their desire to overtake at any point (seemingly particularly just before blind bends…)
The drive is incredibly beautiful, and there are lots of little places you can pull in and look at a waterfall or take photos of the amazing picturesque landscapes. The road follows the river for much of the way. There are also the occasional cafes at the side of the road for toilet breaks or coffee stops
The journey is long, and would highly recommend breaking up the journey if coming from Tbilisi. We were coming from the Kazbegi mountains, so decided to break up the journey with a night in Kutaisi. You can see more about the [journey from Kazbegi to Kutaisi here] so I won’t go into that journey in this post. On the way back from the mountains, we broke up the journey with a stop in Zugdidi, which is also a great little city to stop in on the way.
If you are a confident driver, I would highly encourage you to rent a car and do this trip yourself, as the views and flexibility it offers are very rewarding!
Watch-out: This road used to be really bad, so many car rentals may not actually cover you travelling in this region. It’s worth just double-checking the contract to ensure you are allowed to travel there
Minibus / Marshrutka: Shared minibuses, known as marshrutkas, run from Tbilisi, Zugdidi and Kutaisi to Mestia. These are popular as the most affordable way to travel around the country, and typically leave from designated bus stations. Some may require reservations in advance, especially during peak tourist seasons.
From Tbilisi (450km)
Marshrutka Tbilisi -> Mestia (around 9-10 hours drive), for 50 lari
Leaves at 7am daily from the Navtlugi Bus Station, arriving in the evening around 5-6pm
Via Zugdidi (135km)
Marshrutka Tbilisi -> Zugdidi (around 6-7 hours drive), for ~25 lari
Marshrutka Zugdidi -> Mestia (around 3 hours drive), for ~40 lari
Departure from near Zugdidi market, both in the morning, and after the train arrives from Zugdidi, they will depart once they are full, so you may have to wait a bit
From Kutaisi (220km)
Marshrutka Kutaisi -> Mestia (around 5-6 hours drive)
From Batumi (260km)
Marshrutka Batumi -> Mestia (around 6-7 hours drive)
Train to Zugdidi then Minibus (preferred option if on a budget):
The train normally leaves Tbilisi train station at 8.20am and arrives to Zugdidi at 4.21pm, costing 16 lari for 2nd class - you can check the schedule and buy tickets here
Stay overnight in Zugdidi
Marshrutka Zugdidi -> Mestia the following day (around 3 hours drive), for ~35 lari
Private Transfer / Taxi: If you are looking for added flexibility and comfort, you can take a private transfer or taxi. This journey will take around 7-8 hours from Tbilisi directly, and you have the flexibility to make stops whenever you want for pictures / snacks / bathroom breaks.
You can also get a shared taxi if you are looking to reduce costs but want more flexibility and comfort than a marshrutka
Flying: There is a small airport (Queen Tamar Airport) in Mestia, with quick domestic flights offered almost daily from Natakhtari (outskirts of Tbilisi) and twice a week from Kutaisi. Schedule here if helpful. Please be aware that it is quite a difficult airport to fly into, and we heard lots of stories about cancelled flights, so it may not always be the most reliable option.
Where to stay:
Once in Mestia, there are a range of accommodation options from small guesthouses and home stays, to bigger hotels. It can get quite busy during the summer months, so it is advisable to book in advance if possible.