Drinking our way through Kakheti wine region
A short two hour drive from Tbilisi lies Kakheti, Georgia’s famous wine region. Nestled in the heart of the Caucasus, Georgia boasts a winemaking tradition as ancient as the mountains that cradle its landscapes. This small yet storied country has been cultivating grapes for thousands of years, making it one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world. At the heart of this vinous heritage lies Kakheti, a region renowned for its exceptional wines and time-honoured techniques.
Covered in this post:
Kakheti: The Heartland of Georgian Winemaking
Kakheti, located in eastern Georgia, is often hailed as the country's premier wine region. This fertile area, bordered by the Gombori Mountains to the north and the Alazani River to the south, offers an ideal climate for viticulture. The region's diverse terroir, which includes everything from river valleys to rolling hills, contributes to the complexity and richness of its wines.
A unique feature in Georgian winemaking is the use of qvevri - large clay vessels used for fermenting, aging, and storing wine. This ancient method, which dates back over 8,000 years, was nearly lost during the soviet region, but has recovered and thrived again in recent years.
The process begins with the crushing of grapes, including their skins, seeds, and stems. This mixture, known as the must, is placed into the qvevri, where fermentation takes place. The qvevri is buried underground to maintain a consistent temperature, and the wine is left to age for several months, often up to a year or more, allowing the wine to develop its unique flavours. The extended contact with grape skins imparts a distinctive amber hue to the wine, as well as complex flavours and aromas.
While traditional methods remain integral to Kakheti's winemaking, the region has also embraced modern techniques, often described to us as “European wines”. Today, many Georgian winemakers blend ancient practices with contemporary innovations, experimenting with new varieties and refining their techniques to produce exceptional wines, comparable to some of the other top global wines.
I’m a big fan of wine, and have spent many vacations enjoying tours and tastings in Napa, Burgundy, Loire, Epernay, Bordeaux, Tuscany and many more world class locations, and can comfortably say that Georgia is up there when it comes to it’s wineries and the quality of the tours and tastings. It’s also a great affordable alternative to European or American counterparts.
A Visit to Kakheti:
For wine enthusiasts, a visit to Kakheti offers an immersive experience into one of the world’s most ancient and unique winemaking traditions. Touring the region provides opportunities to explore traditional wineries, taste a diverse range of wines, and learn about the intricate processes that define Georgian viticulture. Many wineries in Kakheti also offer tours that include tastings of both qvevri-aged wines and more modern styles, providing a comprehensive overview of the region’s winemaking heritage.
In addition to wine, Kakheti is known for its rich culinary traditions, which complement its vinous offerings perfectly. Traditional Georgian dishes such as khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) and khinkali (dumplings) pair wonderfully with the region’s robust reds and aromatic whites.
Wine Trail:
Kakheti is home to a rich array of indigenous grape varieties, each contributing its own unique character to the region's wines. Some of the most notable varieties include:
Saperavi: This red grape is the backbone of Georgian red wines. It produces deep, dark wines with intense flavors of black fruit, spices, and sometimes earthy undertones. Saperavi is known for its ability to age well, developing additional complexity over time.
Rkatsiteli: One of Georgia's most ancient white grape varieties, Rkatsiteli is celebrated for its versatility. It produces wines with crisp acidity, vibrant citrus flavors, and a distinctive minerality. When made using the qvevri method, Rkatsiteli wines often develop a rich amber color and a fuller body.
Mtsvane: Another important white grape variety, Mtsvane is known for its aromatic qualities and balanced acidity. It often features floral and fruity notes, making it a favorite for both fresh, young wines and those aged in qvevri.
If you are looking for something a little different, they make some excellent amber wines, and some delicious cold sweet reds (a personal favourite was the Kindzmarauli, which is incredibly drinkable…)
As you drive down the main road in Kakheti, you will see many brown signs signalling the route to the wine trail and specific wineries along it. Some of these are very small local family wineries where you can go and meet the winemakers, drink a glass (or two) of wine, and taste some great local food. There are also larger wineries, often offering both traditional and European methods of making wine, and you can get a more established tour and tasting at these.
My favourite winery we visited was Shumi Winery where we did the tasting you see in my pictures. It is one of the largest wineries in the region, is quite innovative with their techniques (e.g. making the only sparkling amber wine with the traditional method) and has a beautiful garden where you can taste wines and eat lunch. They also often have live music in the evenings. The wine tastings are very reasonable (from 25 lari) and come with paired small bites.
We also stayed at a winery - Schuchmann Wines Château (also in the pictures), which was an amazing place to have dinner, watch the sunset and enjoy some excellent stars! They also had free wine tastings and tours explaining both the european and traditional winemaking techniques in English (and Russian for some of the other guests).
Alongside the fantastic and abundance of wineries, there are also a few great places to visit, with (of course.. you guessed it) more beautiful churches you can explore….
Sighnaghi (also spelt Signagi):
Perched on a hilltop in Georgia's Kakheti region, Sighnaghi is a charming town known for its picturesque cobblestone streets, well-preserved 18th-century architecture, and panoramic views of the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains. Often referred to as the "City of Love," Sighnaghi offers a romantic atmosphere with its quaint houses, vibrant art scene, and historic fortifications.
It’s a great place to base yourself for accommodation. However, even if you don’t stay in this town, it is well worth a visit, to stroll along the city walls, explore local galleries and boutiques, and enjoy traditional Georgian cuisine and wines in one of the many terraces or charming local eateries. The town’s scenic beauty and rich cultural heritage make it a great destination for anyone seeking both history and romance, and it’s a great place to buy any souvenirs.
We had lunch at a restaurant on the outskirts called AMO which had an amazing view over Sighnaghi (where we took the first picture). The views were incredible and the food was decent and reasonably priced, but the service took a really long time - despite not being too busy, so factor that in if you are thinking to go. There are many other restaurants with fantastic terraces and views too to choose from!
Bodbe's St. Nino's Convent Cathedral:
Close to Sighnaghi, Bodbe Cathedral is a serene and historic site revered for its association with St. Nino, the 4th-century evangelist who spread Christianity throughout Georgia. The monastery complex includes a beautifully restored cathedral, a peaceful garden with beautiful flowers, and a prominent spring believed to have healing properties. It’s a lovely place to spend some time exploring the tranquil grounds, admiring the intricate frescoes, and enjoy sweeping views of the Alazani Valley. Bodbe was probably my favourite cathedral in the Kakheti region, and given its proximity to Sighnaghi, is well worth a visit.
We visited Bodbe around 1pm, and it was quite busy. There is a paid parking close to the cathedral (cost 2 lari), but as with all of the other cathedrals, entrance is free to the actual complex. There are a couple of smaller churches in the complex (one was closed for construction when we were there), and it’s a beautiful place to take some pictures and soak in the atmosphere. We spent the longest here of all of the churches in Kakheti.
Alaverdi Monastery:
Nestled in Kakheti, Georgia, Alaverdi Monastery is a historic gem renowned for its 6th-century origins, striking 11th-century cathedral, and ancient winemaking traditions. This spiritual haven, named after the revered St. Joseph of Alaverdi, features well-preserved frescoes, a distinctive bell tower, and one of the oldest wine cellars in the world, that has been producing wine using traditional qvevri methods for over a thousand years. The cathedral and monastery complex are beautiful to explore, and if you want to, you can also enjoy tastings of the monastery’s unique wines.
We were a little disappointed when we visited as there was scaffolding surrounding most of the buildings of the monastery (as you can see in the picture), which ruined the aesthetic somewhat. In other pictures I had seen, it looks much nicer, so hopefully it will be restored soon! We visited around 11am and there were very few people there (perhaps because of the scaffolding). The main door was also shut to enter the main cathedral. Fortunately we took our chances and opened the door to explore, as the inside of the cathedral was still quite spectacular. Also, it was really quite beautiful and something quite spiritual about having nobody but us and the priest in the cathedral - something quite unique vs other major cathedrals in Georgia.
There is a winery and restaurant on the opposite side of the road to the cathedral which serves Georgian food. There is also plenty of free parking there, so you can easily park close to this restaurant and walk across the road.
Watch-out: They were very strict on dress code here, even in the grounds. They had some baggy paper trousers for anyone with knees showing, and wanted us to cover our shoulders and hair (women only) too with scarves.
Gremi's Archangel Complex:
Gremi's Archangel Complex is a historical site renowned for its stunning 16th-century architecture and picturesque setting. This former royal residence and religious center features the beautifully restored Church of the Archangels, with its intricate frescoes and impressive bell tower. Whilst the complex itself is less impressive than some of the other sights in Georgia, it’s a nice stop to explore the remains of the royal citadel and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and the nearby Gombori Mountains. It also offers a glimpse into Georgia's medieval history and the architectural grandeur of its bygone era.
We visited Gremi’s at around 10am and it was completely empty, albeit for a few cute stray puppies, and one lone priest praying - who added to the atmosphere. You can park at the bottom of the hill for free in an area where there were a few little stalls set up with women selling fruit, and walk ~5mins up some steps to the complex. You probably only need 10-15mins here as it’s quite a small site.
Where to stay:
You have a few options for where to stay in the region. The three main areas are:
Telavi: This is the main town in the region, and you will find the bigger chain hotels based here. The town itself isn’t so personable, but it is a good base to get to all of the wineries and local sights.
Signaghi: Also affectionately known as the “city of lovers”, Signaghi is smaller than Telavi, much more walkable, and offers great views over the mountain. Most of the accommodation options here are smaller guesthouses, keeping with the charm of the town.
Vineyards: We chose to stay at hotels in the vineyards. There are many options here at a range of budgets, and allow you to sleep with incredible views across the vineyards. The winery hotels also offer great food and wine onsite. The more luxury hotels are based outside of the city, typically overlooking vineyards or lakes
Luxury $$$
Lopota Lake Resort and Spa
Tsinandali Estate, a Radisson Collection Hotel
Ambassadori Kachreti Golf Resort
Schuchmann Wines Château, Villas & SPA
Offers free wine tours / tastings to guests as an extra perk
Esquisse Design hotel Telavi
Mid-range $$
Kabadoni Boutique Hotel Sighnaghi
Holiday Inn Telavi
Seventeen Rooms Telavi
Château Mosmieri Hotel & Winery
Giuaani Winery
Closer to Sagarejo, which is great if you are coming from further afield than Tbilisi as it’s ~1hr before Signagi
Budget $
As with all of Georgia, there are an abundance of guesthouses you can stay at, and experience some more personal Georgian hospitality
These are generally quite cheap and you can get some decent options for ~$20-30 per night, some even including breakfast and a pool
Other considerations / watch-outs:
As with everywhere in Georgia, the monasteries and churches have strict dress codes. It’s always a good idea to bring something to cover your shoulders / knees / hair (women only) with, although most places do offer you something if you forget. There were a few people who tried to ignore these dress codes, and they were generally reprimanded by locals, sometimes given something to cover with, and other times just kicked out.
Please also remember that the churches are being actively used. As such, try to be quiet and respectful. Many churches don’t allow photos, and for those that do, avoid using the flash at least to preserve these monuments!
Whilst the larger hotels and wineries are more set up for tourism, many people don’t speak English in the smaller wineries and you may find communication challenging. This is all part of the adventure, but can be a bit painful if you are genuinely interested in learning about how the wine is made, and be particularly careful if you have special dietary requirements.